Iproveivient in tailorsj measures



vGf BEAR D.

Taiiors Measure.

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Unire Srarns GEORGE BEARD, oF sALINEviLLE, onto.

IMPROVEMENT EN TAILORS MEASURES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 52,950, dated March 6, 1866.

To all whom t't'mag/ coacewtt Be it known that I, GEORGE BEARD, of Salineville, in the county of- Columbiana and State of Ohio, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Apparatus for Applying Measurements to Cloth, Sto.; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description thereof, which will enable others skilled in the art to make and use the same, reference being had to the aceompan yin g drawings, forming part of this specification, in which- A Figure l represents an example of my invention-to wit, a pattern for one side ofthe front of a vest. Fig. 2 represents a pattern for one-half the back of a vest.

This invention consists in patterns with plane surfaces to be laid upon any stuff to be out, and having graduated arms branching from them in these directions, or capable of being swung round in these directions, along which Athe measures taken by a conformator or by other devices are to be laid out. The patterns are to be in their general outline of the shape of the garments to be cut, those shown in the drawings being intended for cutting out vests. Patterns made on the principle of this invention are adapted to be used in cutting out garments from measures taken by the aid of tapes and by other methods, and they will be found very useful in connection with the conformator invented by me, and for which Letters Patent 'were granted to me July 11, 1865, numbered 48,644, to which, so far as laying out77 the measurement is concerned, the pattern for any particular garment may be called a keyJ y My invention relates to what may be called a key for applying to use the measurements obtained from the several divisions of a conformator, or from any other system of taking measures.

It consists of a pattern which is to be made ofthe general shape and outline ofthe gar# ment to be cut out, the patterns or keys here shown in Figs. 6 and 7 being intended for cutting out vests or sleeveless waistcoats.

The letter Gr designates the pattern outline for one-half of a vest-front, and the letter O designates the like for a back, H and P being straight pieces fixed lengthwise thereon for the purpose of securing the graduated arms which extend in different directions toward and beyond the edges of the patterns.

These arms are placed on the upper surface ofthe patterns, their inner ends being confined thereto by the said plates H P, respectively. Such of the arms as need to be moved or swung along the edges of the patterns should be pivoted to permit them to be so moved, while those which need not be moved, as, for instance, the arms I W-in Fig. G-ean be ixed permanently to the pattern.

In the examples here given of the mode of making said keys or patterns the arms M N J K L of the pattern G and all the arms of the pattern Of-to wit, the arms Q, R S I U should be made capable ofmotion about their points of attachment as about centers, and graduations of measurement are marked on them in correspondence with the graduations on the divisions of any conformator or other scale.

It will be seen from this construction that if the pattern is laid down on the stuff to be cut the arm L will enable the cutter to transfer and mark upon the stuff the proper measurement of the corresponding part of the ligure from the center Yof motion of such arm, such center of motion answering to the corresponding center or point of that division of i the conformator whose measurement and whose position corresponds with the said arm L. The same remark applies to each of said arms, whether they are fixed or movable. In addition to these means ot' transferring the measures obtained by a conformator or other device, I extend theplateP upward and downward and make graduations thereon at both ends, thereby making its ends answer the office of two additional arms. The like may be done in the case of the plate H. In addition to the use here stated of the said arms, I am able to ascertain the measurement of a line drawn from one degree on al1 arm or plate to the corresponding degree on the next arm by means of a table of degrees made on the part of the pattern over which the last-mentioned arm moves-that is to say, I make a graduated table of measurements ou the pat tern, consisting ofthree series, the middle one being made in the same order and ofthe same gures as the graduations on the arm itself. This line of gures is made on a radial line drawn from the center of motion of the armsay of the arm U. On. the right hand of this line I make another scale ot' figures, opposite to andparallel with the one already mentioned, but differing therefrom in having its opposite gures one unit less than those of the firstnamed scale.. For instance, where the firstnamed sca-le has the number 24 the right-hand scale has the number 23, and so ou down the scale, whereas on the left-hand side a like parallel scale has its number one unit greater than the numbers ofthe irst-mentioned scale. The right-hand scale is nearest to the iiXed arm or plate P. Now, if the measurement of that division ot' a conformator which corresponds with the arm U has been ascertained, and it' the measurement of that division which is represented by the lower end ot' the arm P has been ascertained, I can ascertain the distance between the extreme points ot1 such measurements by swinging the arm U to the right or left ofthe middle scale ot' igures, according as the length ofthe measurement on the bar U is less or greater than that on the plate P-that is to say, if the measurement on the line of the plate Pis 24, and that 011 the line of the bar U is 25, the bar is to be swung outward past the middle scale until it covers the ligures 25 on the left-hand or most remote scale and so on for each degree of measurement. It' the said measurement is ,greater than that on the line ofthe bar U, the baris moved inward until it covers those figures on the left-hand scale which are one unit less than the mea-surement on the line of the plate P. When the bar U has been brought thus to its proper place a line drawn from those figures on the plate P which indicate the measurement along its line to thelike figures on the bar will be the line of measurement around that part of the body which lies between the points ot' the two first measurements. The same method can be pursued for getting the horizontalmeasurements between any other adjacent lines oflongitudinal measurement-as, for instance, between the arms M N of Fig. l.

The arms M, N, and U are shown in the drawings as covering the central scale of gures. Instead ot' making a central scale ot' figures, it will answer to make a linef instead thereof', the movements of the bars being taken to the right er to the left of such line, according as the horizontal measurement lis to be shorter or longer than the iigures indicated or supposed to be indicated on the central son le.

Iclaim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent- Patterns for laying out measurements4 on cloth and other materials, constructed and operated substantially as 'above shown.

rlhe above specification of my invention signed by me this 1st day ot' July, 1865.

GEORGE BEARD.

` Witnesses: M. M. LIVINGSTON, O. L. ToPLrFF. 

